Booze’s big rebrand: How nonalcoholic drinks took over the nightlife scene

At El Prado, a moody natural wine bar in Los Angeles’s Echo Park neighborhood, the aged mirror backsplash behind the silhouettes of bartenders advertises a healthy selection of natural wines, hoppy beers, and hard ciders. The Sunset Boulevard mainstay is known for its live vinyl nights and facsimile of a European-style cafe scene, with conversations and smoke breaks that spill out onto the sidewalk. But it’s also known for its unique nonalcoholic beverage options: sparkling nettle tea,...